Men’s Guide to Creating a Capsule Wardrobe

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Everyone should have a Capsule wardrobe that consists of basic, essential items, in neutral colours that can be worn with other items of clothing, or accessories, to create a variety of looks.

Choose neutral colours

Black/grey, white/off-white, beige/dark brown, Navy or denim ( choose those that best suit your individual colouring)  can be mix and matched with other colours or prints and  to create dozens of different outfits.

Look for timeless pieces 

These could last for several seasons; there is something to be said for the jeans/shirt/blazer combo that is appropriate for most occasions these days. If you look for styles, but always look good, regardless of the latest trend, you are on to a winner! These include single breasted jackets or suits, flat fronted, straight or slim cut trousers, shirts, sweaters, t-shirts and jeans.  

These are items of clothing that could hold their own in any decade, not for being at the height of fashion, but for their simplicity and quiet class.

Plan your entire wardrobe for versatility and around your lifestyle. Have two or three pairs of jeans or casual trousers, a couple jackets, suits and tops, appropriate to your work and casual needs. Choose just two or three classic colours that all complement each other and you´ll be able to mix and match your entire wardrobe, creating dozens of different outfits.  Opt for mostly solid colours rather than prints and you´ll have more combinations available to you.

Throw in a scarf or two and range of different belts and masculine accessories and you can have even more looks, all with just a few select items.

Below is a guide to the basics of a versatile man’s wardrobe.  Obviously, your capsule wardrobe should reflect your personality and lifestyle and your individual needs will depend on this e.g. if work necessitates classic business wear, your requirements will be very different to those of say, a personal trainer in a gym. 

The aim is to build up your basic capsule wardrobe, then supplement this with the trends of the season. It is wise to pay more for the capsule wardrobe essentials, that will last from season to season, possibly year to year, and less on the trends which you may be fashionable for only a short time.

Choosing Casual and Smart Trousers

Finding the right fit:

When choosing casual trousers, the trouser leg should cover the top of your shoes so that socks are not visible but they should not be so long that they drag on the ground.  The same is true for more formal trousers and ideally the hems of these will be slightly angled to allow the front to sit just on the shoes whilst the back just touches the top of the shoe’s heel.

The waist of any pair of trousers should fit comfortably -you should be able to fit two fingers in the waistband.  They should fit above the hipbone but below the navel.  Very low slung waistbands should be avoided as should very high waistbands should be, especially if you have a larger tummy.

The distance between the top button of the trousers and the bottom of the crotch is known as the rise. Whilst most men will like a little bit of room down there, it also important not to have too long a rise as it will look like the trousers are too big.  The seat of a pair of trousers, or the bottom area should fit snugly but not too tightly as this will make your bottom look bigger and will be quite uncomfortable, as you can imagine!

The truth about pleats:

Many men wear pleated trousers because they believe that they disguise any weight carried around the tummy area.  The real truth is that they do the exact opposite!  They actually draw attention to the area and add excess bulk and material.  The more effective solution for the larger tummy is to create smoother lines and detract attention by wearing flat-fronted styles that are not too tight around the waist.

Choosing Jeans

Buying jeans can seem like a minefield with all the styles and washes to choose from!  It is always best to ask the advice of a salesperson in a dedicated jean store or department as they know the different styles available, where to find them in the shop, and which ones are likely to suit you.

There are five basic styles available:

• Boot cut – slim lines and a slight flare at the bottom. Believe it or not they make be making a comeback, according to GQ Magazine: “Sure, you’ve probably been told to shy away from boot-cut jeans, but if you’re after a 1970s-style fit à la Brad Pitt and Leonardo DiCaprio in Once Upon A Time In… Hollywood, then reconsider. With a slimmer thigh and a sharp outward taper at the bottom, pair with a Western-style boot for a real menswear moment.” What do you think guys??
• Easy fit – more generous in the seat, thigh and leg and tend to taper slightly at the bottom. Good if you don’t feel comfortable in more fitted styles
• Straight leg – don’t have any flare and are a leaner cut than easy fit. This style is good for most body shapes as long as they are not too tight or too loose.        
• Slim Fit – a very nice, flattering style for most men of slim/medium/athletic build   – not too baggy and not to tight                          
• Skinny – best left to teenagers and ‘twenty somethings’ who can look great in them.  Probably not a good look for older men –except, perhaps,  rock star types who can carry them of with the right personality, confidence and attitude!

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A dark wash looks smarter for evenings or more dressy occasions. A slightly distressed look can look more stylish than a flat colour but keep very distressed, ripped or light washes, for more casual occasions.

A really good buy would be a pair that best fits and flatters your body shape. They should be comfortable and go with many items in your wardrobe.  Lower waisted or medium rise will be most flattering on most body types.

Remember- if in doubt, always ask for the opinion of the shop assistant and/or your honest shopping buddy!

Chinos

These can be flat fronted or pleated and are extremely versatile as they bridge the gap between very casual or formal. They can be worn with say, with polo shirt for more casual occasions or teamed with a shirt and contrasting jacket for a more a dressy look, when jeans may be inappropriate.

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Dress Trousers

For occasions where you need to be even smarter, it’s good idea to have a couple of pairs of dress trousers. As with Chinos, they can be pleated or flat fronted. Remember that pleats should stay closed – if they pull, it means the trousers are too tight. Lightweight wool or cotton mixes can be worn for smart summer occasions while a thicker, heavier, wool or wool mix, is ideal for winter wear. They are best worn with classic shoes e.g. black oxford lace-ups, and a simple slim belt and a dressier shirt.

Always wear black shoes with charcoal grey or black trousers and black, navy or brown shoes with beige or taupe trousers plus belt to match shoes, of course.

Shorts

Most men look best in Bermuda style- knee length or just above. 

Styles can be plain or cargo and in a variety of colours and fabrics, including denim.  The same rules apply as for trousers i.e. avoid pleats or cargo styles if you want to appear slimmer.

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Choosing shirts and sweaters:

Casual or T-shirts

A man’s casual shirt and can be long or short sleeved. They come in plain, checked, striped or prints to suit your personal style and personality.  Choose the cut to suit your shape – if you are slim, a fitted style looks great and if you are carrying a bit of extra weight, a tapered style would suit. Very baggy shirts are flattering on nobody- they will only make you look bigger and shapeless!

T-shirts can be casual or smarter e.g. polo shirts

Casual shirts & T-shirts look great with jeans, chinos, cargos or shorts.

Oxford Shirt

These are slightly more formal shirts but less so than dress shirts. They may bridge the gap when you need something a bit dressier but not too formal.  They are classic in style, with tiny buttons on the collar and are made of heavyweight cotton so they tend to last longer than dress shirts. They look good worn with jeans or chinos, perhaps with a jacket or blazer, for a smart casual look.

Dress/Business Shirts

These shirts are more tailored for use with suits, you will obviously need more of these if you need to  wear suits for work but it is a good idea for most men to have at least two or three – one white, one coloured and one striped so that you will be prepared for any occasion.

When shopping for dress shirts, pay even closer attention to sizing. It is advisable to seek help from a sales assistant as they should be experts in this field.  Shirt cuffs should preferably french, worn with cuff links and should fall about ¼ of an inch below your suit sleeve and you should be able to fit two fingers (no more or less) inside the fastened collar.

As dress shirts tend to be made of finer fabric, they are more likely to shrink slightly after a few washes, so it may be better to go slightly larger than smaller. The sales person should be able to advise you on this.

Sweaters

These can be crew neck (round), V neck or polo (roll neck) and in plain colours. They are must haves for the cooler seasons. Crew and V-necks can be teamed with shirts or t-shirts, for infinite variety. Polo or roll necks are best avoided if you are carrying extra weight or if you have a short neck.  A lightweight cardigan is a great alternative to the sweater.  Remember, all of these should be fitted (not tight) rather than loose, to be flattering on all body shapes.

Blazers/Sports Jackets

Smart, blazer style, jackets that do not have matching trousers are traditionally known at sports jackets.  These are casual, but smart, jackets that can be worn with shirts, sweaters and even t-shirts. They come in a variety of colours and materials. They can turn jeans from scruffy to chic in an instant and nicely bridge the gap between very casual and business or formal. Most men would benefit from having at least one or two of these in their wardrobe

Casual Jackets

These can be in a variety of fabrics including wool, wool-mix, denim, suede and leather and styles can include short, bomber, hip length or ¾, overcoat, style. Choose a style that suits your individual body shape and colouring.  One or two of these are great for casual day wear, where anything more formal would make you feel overdressed.

Coats

For men, these tend to be overcoat style (crombie), single or double breasted or trenchcoat style for wet weather wear.  Keep colours muted or traditional –taupe, beige, charcoal, Navy or black.

Suits and Ties

The three traditional cuts of suit are –

• The British cut
• The Italian cut
• The American cut

This video by Antonio Centeno of Real Men Real Style sums up the difference perfectly. You can then decide which style is right for you!

It is vitally important that the suit fits you well and most shops offer a tailoring service – the shop assistant will measure and pin the garment as required.  If this service is not available, it is better to go slightly larger than smaller then take it to a good tailor who will alter it for you to ensure a perfect fit.

How to Choose a Tie

Like any accessory, ties can make or break an outfit. You can use them to add a splash of colour, that suits you, or to express your personality (Not through novelty ties- we’re talking stylish and subtle here!)  Though there are thousands of varieties available, it’s a good idea to keep it simple.  

Ties are available in a variety of fabrics but silk ties are a very good choice.  When choosing designs, remember that vertical lines will make you appear taller whilst horizontal lines will make you appear wider.  If you are wearing it with a patterned or striped shirt, the tie design should be bolder and should pick out some more subdued colours from the shirt e.g. you could wear a blue and white striped shirt with a plain blue tie and cuff links or a patterned tie where the blue features strongly. Narrower ties are more flattering on smaller men and slightly wider ties are more suited to men with a larger chest width.

You don’t have to pay a fortune for good quality ties. All the tie sets in the slideshow above are from Amazon– many are silk and some sets come with matching pocket squares and/or cufflinks

*It’s a good idea when buying tailored clothes, to ask the shop assistant to measure you and to record the measurements for you.  Below is a men’s measurement minder so you never forget!*

Accessories

Men’s accessories include shoes, watches, belts, cuff-links, wallets, scarves, sunglasses, prescription eyewear and even types of jewellery!

Shoes:

Luckily for men, shoe choices are relatively limited and are less susceptible to the whims of fashion.  This means that a good quality pair of shoes could last for several years.

Here are some examples of styles that are widely available:

The Oxford Lace-up

This style can serve as the perfect complement to most suits and is a must-have for  the stylish wardrobe.

The Brogue

This is one of the most classic styles. It is similar to the Oxford Lace-up but has tiny holes punched into the leather, forming a pattern

The Loafer

This classic Italian style can be worn with jeans, trousers or suits (without the tie) to achieve a cool yet sophisticated look.  The only thing to avoid is a low vamp ( the vamp refers to how far the loafer comes up the foot). A vamp that is too low, reveals too much of the sock and can ruin an, otherwise, good look!

The Chelsea Boot

These are a classic design that can go with everything! They offer an alternative to the average dressy shoe and can bring personality and sexiness to a look.  They aren’t as bulky as a walking or military style boot and are much smarter.  The side gore (a small, stretchy, elastic panel) lets the boot fit comfortable without the need for laces.

The Driving Moccasin

These are a great style for all day comfort and because of their simple design, can go with almost everything (with the exception of formal suits). You can find them in a variety of colours so you can be a conservative, or adventurous, as you like!

Trainers

These don’t have to be reserved for sports –there are many smarter and funkier styles to choose from for casual street wear.  I’s also fashionable to wear trainers with dressier clothes right now. They can add subtle colour and express personality.  Just make sure they aren’t too outrageous or ugly!  Leather trainers are a great option and in darker colours, can provide dressier look without being too formal.

Shoe Shopping tips

• When trying on shoes, wear the right type of sock –don’t try on dressy shoes with a thick white sports sock, for instance!
• Always try them on, don’t be tempted to buy them just because they are your size, as all feet are different, and some shoe styles more comfortable than others.
• If you find a pair of classic shoes that you love, fit like a dream, and that go with lots of your outfits, consider buying 2 pairs, if you can afford to.                        

Jewellery

For men, jewellery should be kept to a minimum unless you really want to look like Ali G or Mr. T!  A man’s wedding band or signet ring is nice and subtle.  If it suits your style, then maybe you could try a simple and stylish necklace, braclet or “surf” beads with a t-shirt or funky shirt.

Where earrings and men are concerned, remember that both earrings and some tattoos can create different associations,  for different people. Whilst you may see them as cool or sexy, others may not agree.  If you are comfortable with that,  still want to go ahead and wear them and are confident enough to carry them off, then the choice is, ultimately, yours!

Watches

One of the most important accessories is a stylish wrist watch.  Whilst a quality watch is a great investment, will last years, and will be noticed (particularly by other men!) it is possible to buy inexpensive watches that look great.  It is advisable to own two different watches – one for smarter outfits and occasions and the other for casual weekend or sports wear.  Classic styles have leather straps, sporty watches-metal linked straps and casual, fun. watches may have fabric, rubber or plastic straps. 

Scale needs to be considered too. Keep things in proportion – wider wrists suit larger watches whilst smaller watch faces help a tiny wrist look bigger.

Belts

Belts are a must have for every man – belt loops just don’t look right without one!  The great thing about belts is that they rarely become out-dated. As with all your clothes, spend most on the best quality classic styles, in different widths and shades, to suit a variety of loop sizes and outfits. Generally, more slender belts are good with smarter trousers and wider, chunkier belts, are great with jeans, cords and more casual outfits.

Ideally speaking, a man’s belt should complement their shoes. Although you needn’t stick rigidly to fashion rules, bear in mind that a brown belt wouldn’t look great with black shoes and vise versa!

Cuff Links

Even if do not regularly wear suits, many fabulous shirts now have French cuffs and in order to wear them, you will need to have some cuff-links.  You do not have to spend a fortune on them! They should match, or compliment, your tie or echo the colour of a pattern in your shirt. It’s worth investing in a few pairs of cuff-links, in a variety of colours, to suit your taste.

Sunglasses and Prescription Eyewear

Men’s glasses should be kept simple and be in colours that suit your skin tone e.g. black or silver for cool skin tones and brown or gold for warm skin tones. As with watches, think about scale and proportion- larger frames for wide or rounder faces and smaller ones for narrow, smaller faces.

Always ask yourself the following questions when buying glasses-

• Do they fit your face?
• Are they flattering?
• Are they too bit/small?
• Do they work with your colouring?
• Do they suit your personality?
• Will they go with most of the colours in my wardrobe?

If in doubt, ask the sales assistant or your trusted shopping buddy for an opinion.

Wallets

 

Unless “man bags” take off in a big way, it’s a good idea to choose wallets that are as slim and sleek as possible as a bulky wallet can ruin your look, if stuffed in the pocket of your jeans or trousers!

General rules for shopping success

• Make a list of what you need and stick to it, unless you spot something that fits all your criteria.
• Only choose to buy trends that suit your colouring, body shape, personality, lifestyle and budget. What’s the point of wasting money on an expensive, made-to-measure suit if would only wear once?
• Remember the 70/30 rule i.e. your wardrobe should contain 30% trends and 70% timeless items to be cost effective.
• Make sure that what you buy goes with at least 3 other items in your wardrobe.
• Spend more on timeless classics and less on something that you may only wear for one season.
• Only buy items in colours outside your own palette if they are not worn near your face e.g. trousers or a jacket with one of your best colour shirts
• Consider cost per wear – will the number of times you are likely to wear the item offset the cost?
• If you find style basics that suits you e.g.  sweaters, business shirts,  t-shirts,  or jeans, it may be a worth buying several in different colours.
• Don’t forget that accessories such as shoes, cuff links, ties, scarves and watches, can totally transform an outfit and effectively double. or treble, the number of outfits in your wardrobe. when combined in different ways!
• If you are not confident about making choices on your own, take an honest (stylish) friend with you!

Choose items from some or all of the above categories to suit your, lifestyle, personality, colouring, body shape and budget.  If you stick to the “Capsule Wardrobe” ideal i.e. invest in classic essentials, in co-ordinating colours first, then add trends to update and re-fresh your look as required, you will have a versatile, timeless wardrobe that will make it easy to achieve effortless style, without breaking the bank!

For summer vacation capsule wardrobe ideas, check out my post: Want some great packing tips for, stress free, holidays?